In the land of the ‘Om’ - Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga

An island shaped like the most sacred of Hindu symbols, the Om, a mountainous region covered with ancient temples, the sacred Narmada flowing on either side, smoothening the rough rocks into pebbles to be carried away by pilgrims and venerated as Shiva Lingams, Omkareshwar is all that and more.

Home to one of the 12 Jyotirlingams, the island of Omkareshwar is venerated almost as much as the lingam itself. 

There are two main temples at Omkareshwar, one on the mainland and one on the island. The island temple is credited to Mandhata, an ancestor of Rama, who installed the lingam and built the temple. While most consider this one to be the Jyotirling, the place abounds in myth and legend. According to one, this lingam is believed to have split into two and installed itself on the other bank too. According to others, it is the temple of Mamleshwar (also called Amaleshwar or Amareshwar) on the mainland which is older and the real Jyotirling. 

Omkareshwar Temple

Mamleshwar the Jyotirling: 

While the island temple has received much attention in the past and has been renovated recently, the Mamleshwar temple certainly looks much older and more beautiful too. The Mamleshwar temple is also more endearing thanks to the absence of the pandas (priests) who are the most prominent feature of the Omkar Mandhata temple on the island. We visited the Mamleshwar temple at night before the final aarti was performed, and had to literally hunt out a priest to perform abhishek to the lord, and the one we finally found was so thrilled by all the items we had brought for the puja that he happily did the elaborate puja with a smile on his face and asked for money only when we were done.

Omkar Mandhata: 

For a long time, the only way to approach the island was by boat. Now, there are two bridges, one connecting the boat landing area to the Omkar Mandhata temple, the other connecting the two temples — Omkareshwar and Mamleshwar. No vehicles are allowed on the island, so both are only foot bridges. The Narmada which once flowed fast and furious along this stretch is now a tame river, thanks to a dam mired in controversy, of which one gets a wonderful view from the bridge. 

The entire island is a hilly area, and it is these hills which give it the shape of the Om. Just a few steps take us to the temple, which is visible from quite a distance. 

Chitrapat Kshetra

At a lower level, just below the main temple is a small entrance to a cave. Today, the inner parts of the cave are no longer accessible, but at the entrance is an image of the sage who made this cave his home — Sri Govinda Bhagavatpada — the guru of Adi Shankaracharya. It was to this cave that the young Shankara came, having given up his home, seeking the preceptor who would lead him to the light. It is here that he came as a young boy, swimming across the furious waters of the Narmada, and left, a sanyasi with a mission! In spite of the rampant commercialization of Omkareshwar, this small cave has maintained its sanctity, the sanctity that can be felt at once as you enter the cave!

Omkareshwar

The roads are lined with shops, big and small, selling all the paraphernalia of Indian prayer rituals, but the main commodity in these shops is are the Shiva Lingams. It is a belief that every stone found in the Narmada is a Shiva Lingam, and every few yards sits a child or a woman selling stones picked from the depths of the river. Prices start from Rs 21 onwards and especially coveted (and expensive) are the black stones with a white line passing through, which signifies the Upavita, or sacred thread. 

Omkareshwar Parikrama: 

While it is for the temples that most pilgrims visit Omkareshwar, the most interesting thing about the island is the island itself. With its unique shape, the island itself has been venerated, and over centuries, scores of temples have been built on it. The ancients not just built the temples, but also made a path so that one could visit all the temples while circumambulating the entire island. This is called the Omkareshwar Parikrama, and has been recently revived by MP Tourism. 

The Parikrama path starts near the bridge and moves along the Narmada till it joins its tributary, the Kaveri (so called, even though it is the same river, diverging from the main river at the other end of the island), passing through temples old and new, some standing tall and proud, others in ruins, winding its way along the mountains, now climbing to yet another temple, now descending to the bank of the river, finally culminating at the temple consecrated by Mandhata. The well paved road is about nine kms long, and takes, at the most, three and a half hours to cover, including rest stops at the various temples. It is quite an easy trek, considering that my son, who is six and my father-in-law, who is 70, both completed it without too much trouble!

There are many places of interest along the path. The first is the sangam or confluence of the two tributaries of the Narmada. This is, for a change, clean and perfect for a bath. The clear water with rounded pebbles forming the river bed invites us to sink our feet into it and enjoy a relaxed dip, while the more devout pilgrims (few, at the best of times, since it is almost an hour’s walk from the bridge) offer prayers. 

Temple in India

An interesting custom is followed here. Big and small stones are collected from the river and piled up along the bank with prayers to the goddess of the river. One of the villagers there told us that people stacked these stones in the hope that they would be able to build houses as easily as they stacked these stones! We found these stacked up stones not just at the confluence, but all along the river bank, in fact, all over the Parikrama path!

Then there is the Gori Somnath Mandir, an ancient temple where the lingam is a huge one, jet black in colour. Legend tells us that this lingam was once pure white, and that one could see his past life just by standing in front of it. Then came Aurangzeb, and as soon as he appeared in front of the lingam, it turned black! This is one of the few temples in the area still intact to a large extent. Though many of the beautiful sculptures have fallen down, it still stands tall and proud among the ruins of others which have not been as fortunate!

As we climb down the final steps which lead us to the end of the Parikrama, our aching legs yearn for a rest, but we feel fresh inside, and can’t help thinking that we arrived at Omkareshwar to see one of the Jyotirlings, and were appalled with the rampant commercialisation, but returned with so much more, an inner peace that comes from a truly spiritual experience!

How to reach

Omkareshwar is situated about 65 kms from Indore and 256 kms from Bhopal. The road from Indore takes us through the mighty Satpura ranges, and winds its way along the Ghats before opening up into a plain covered with cotton fields and irrigated by the Narmada. The journey from Indore to Ujjain takes a little more than an hour by car and about one-and-a-half hours by bus.

Direction to Omkareshwar

There are plenty of buses available on this route, both, those run by the MPRTDC as well as private ones. They can certainly not be classified as luxury, but they are comfortable and adequate for the short journey. A car hire for the one way trip costs about Rs 1200.

Krishna Janmashtami - birthday of Lord Krishna

!! जय श्री क़ृष्ण !!

Krishna Janmashtami is the birthday of Lord Krishna, the eighth Divine Incarnation of Lord Vishnu. It falls on the 8th day of the dark half of the month (in the waning part of the lunar cycle between the full moon and the new moon) of Bhadrapada (August-September). It is a festival celebrated with great devotion and enthusiasm by Krishna devotees all across the world. But why did Lord Krishna incarnate into the physical realm anyway?

Incarnations of Lord Krishna

Complete Incarnation

Incarnations of God appear for special reasons under special circumstances. Whenever there is much unrighteousness, whenever confusion and disorder set in on account of unrighteousness and baffle the well-ordered progress of mankind, whenever the balance of human society is upset by selfish, ruthless and cruel beings, whenever irreligion and unrighteousness prevail, whenever the foundations of social organisations are undermined, the great Incarnation of God appears in order to re-establish righteousness and to restore peace.

यदा यदा हि धर्मस्या, ग्लानिर्भवति भारत । अभ्युत्थानम् अधर्मस्या, तदात्मानं सृजाम्यहम् ।।

yadaa yadaa hi dharmasya, glaanirbhavati bhaarata.

abhyutthaanam.h adharmasya, tadaatmaanM sRRijaamyaham.h..

Hey Bhaarata (Arjuna). It is Faith which teaches renunciation and is responsible for the elevation and well-being of human beings. Whenever in the passage of time, (yadaa yadaa) Faith (or dharma) is weakened or is under attack, (glaanirbhavati) – and whenever adharma spreads without control (abhyutthaanam.h) – it is then (tadaatmaanM) that I re-incarnate myself (sRRijaamyaham.h) with all my powers to restore Faith. Whenever there is a decline of righteousness, and the rise of unrighteousness, then I re-incarnate myself to teach dharma.

Krishnaaa

An incarnation is the descent of God for the ascent of man. The work done by the Incarnation of God and His teachings produce a benign influence on human beings and help them in their upward divine unfoldment and Self-realisation.

Physical Manifestation

His enchanting form with flute in hand is worshipped in myriads of homes in India. It is a form to which is poured out devotion and supreme love from the hearts of countless devotees not only in India but also in the West. Millions of spiritual seekers worship Him and repeat His Mantra, Om Namo Bhagavate Vasudevaya.

His Roles in Life

Lord Krishna was great in knowledge, great in emotion, great in action, all at once. The scriptures have not recorded any life more full, more intense, more sublime and grander than the life of Sri Krishna.

Bansi Bajaiya Krishna

Krishna played various roles during His stay in the world. He was Arjuna’s charioteer. He was an excellent statesman. He was a master musician; he gave lessons even to Narada in the art of playing the veena. The music of His flute thrilled the hearts of the Gopis and everyone else. He was a cowherd in Brindavan and Gokul. He exhibited miraculous powers even as a child. He killed many demons.

He revealed His Comic Form to His mother, Yasoda. He performed the Rasa Lila, the secret of which can only be understood by devotees like Narada, Gauranga, Radha and the Gopis. He taught the supreme Truth of Yoga, Bhakti and Vedanta to Arjuna and Uddhava. He had mastered every one of the sixty-four fine arts. For all these reasons He is regarded as a full and complete manifestation of God.

nishiithe tama udbhUte jAyamAne janArdane |

devakyAm devarUpiNyAm viShNuH sarvaguhAshayaH||

AvirAsiid yathA prAcyAm dishiinduriva puShkalaH ||

Then, at the hour of midnight, which ushered in the advent of the Lord janArdana, when the darkness was at its most intense, viShNu, who dwells in the cave of the hearts of all creatures, revealed Himself as He verily is, in divinely beautiful devakii, even as the full-orbed moon rises in the eastern sky.

The Lord, who is eternal, manifested Himself, just as the moon, which is ever present, becomes visible in the eastern sky when it rises. He is compared to the full moon to indicate His fullness (pUrNatvam).

!! जय श्री क़ृष्ण !!

मतंगेस्वर मंदिर (Matangeshwar mahadev - Temple)

खजुराहो के मंदिर वेसे तो दुनिया भर में काम कला के मंदिरों के रूप में विख्यात है| किन्तु यंहां का मतंगेस्वर शिव मंदिर हिन्दुओं की आस्था का बड़ा केंद्र है |यही एक मात्र एसा मंदिर है जहाँ आदि काल से निरंतर पूजा होती चली आ रही है | चंदेल राजाओं द्वारा नोवी सदी में बंनाये गए इस मंदिर में के शिव लिंग के नीचे एक एसी मणि है जो हर मनोकामना पूरी करती है \ कभी यहाँ भगवान् राम ने भी पूजा की थी | शिव रात्रि के दिन यहाँ शिव भक्तों का तांता लगा रहता | खजुराहो के सभी मंदिरों में सबसे ऊँची जगती पर बने इस मंदिर में जो भी आता है वो भक्ति में डूब जाता है चाहे वो हिन्दुस्तानी हो या विदेशी | कहते है की यह शिव लिंग किसी ने बनवाया नहीं है बल्कि यह स्वयंभू शिव लिंग है \ १८ फिट की मूर्ति है जितना ऊपर है उतना ही नीचे भी है |ये मूर्ति प्रति वर्ष तिल के बराबर बढती भी है 

मतंग ऋषि करते थे पूजा

यंहां मतंग ऋषि इस शिव लिंग की पूजा करते थे | इसका नाम मतंगेस्वर स्वयं भगवान् श्री राम ने मतंग ऋषि के नाम पर रखा था |हमे यहाँ मिले यमुना प्रसाद मिश्रा [योगी] जिनका जीवन ही यहाँ की आराधना के बाद बदल गया सिपाही से वे योगी बन गए |वे बताने लगे यहाँ की महिमा ,यंहां पर मूर्ति पहले से स्थापित थी ,त्रेता युग में इसका उलेख मिलता है ,रामायण में उल्लेख मिलता है ,यहाँ मतंग ऋषि थे उनसे मिलने भगवान् राम आए थे ,उन्होने भगवान शिव की पूजा अर्चना की और उन्होने मतंग के नाम पर भगवान शिव को मतंगेस्वर नाम दिया 

मरकत मणि :

यंहां के चंदेल राजाओं को मरकत मणि चन्द्र वंशी होने के कारण विरासत में मिली थी | चंदेल राजाओं ने इस मणि की सुरक्षा के लिए और नियमित पूजा अर्चना के लिए इसे शिव लिंग के नीचे रखवा दिया था ,लोक मान्यता है की जो भी आदमी मरकत मणि की पूजा करता है उसकी हर मनोकामना पूर्ण होती है |इंद्र के द्वारा मरकत मणि युधिस्टर को दी गई थी , आगे जाकर यशो वर्मन ,चन्द्र वर्मन के पास रही है उन्होने उसकी सुरक्षा करने के हिसाब से वा पूजा अर्चना होती रहे इसलिए शिव लिंग के नीचे स्थापित करा दिया था |

आज खजुराहो के इस मंदिर में हर कोई एक मनोकामना लेकर आता है ,भोले भंडारी हर किसी की मनोकामना पूर्ण भी करते है एसा विश्वास यंहां के लोगों का है |लोगों की आस्थाए है तभी तो यंहां हर शिव रात्रि ,अमावश्या पर यहाँ हजारों की संख्या में श्रद्धालु जुडते है |पीड़ियों से यहाँ पुजारी का दायित्व निभाने वाले बाबूलाल गोतम यहाँ भक्तों के भाव काफी नजदीकी से देख रहे है ,वे बातों ही बातों में बताने लगे की किस तरह लोग यहाँ आकर अपनी मनोकामना व्यक्त करते है ,लोग उल्टे हाथे लगाकर अपनी मनोकामना व्यक्त करते है ,मनोकामना पूर्ण होने के बाद सीधे हाथे लगाते है |पंडित जी कब भावुक हो गए पता ही नहीं चला ,कहने लगे हमारे परिवार की प्रगति की जो रफ़्तार है वह इन्ही की कृपा से है |

खजुराहो के ही राम विशाल दीक्षित का काम पर्यटकों को घुमाना है ,उनकी आँखों के सामने आज भी वह द्रश्य घूम जाता है जब वो कुछ पाने और बनने के लिए खजुराहो आया था ,पर हताशा में उसे ३०० रु की नोकरी करना पड़ी तभी वह भी मतंगेस्वर के दरबार में फरियाद लेकर पहुंचा तब से आज तक उसने पीछे मुड़कर नहीं देखा ,वो अपनी तरह से अपनी बात समझाता है |देखिये ये १८ फिट uncha शिव लिंग है जितना ऊपर है उतना ही नीचे है उसके नीचे मणि लगी है ,मणि के सामने आप मनसा वाचा कर्मणा से आप जाते है तो आपकी मनोकामना पूर्ण होगी |, जब में खजुराहो आया मुझे अंग्रेजी बोलना आती नहीं थी,में किसीको जनता नहीं था | मेने इनके दर्शन किये | इनकी कृपा से आज खजुराहो में मेरा मकान है ,गाड़ी है ,सब कुछ है|

में बहुत देर तक लोगों की आस्था और विश्वास को तोलने का प्रयाश करता रहा ,यह समझ नहीं पा रहा था की किस पर विश्वास करूँ और किस पर ना करूँ | तभी मुझे लगा की शंका का समाधान ए.एस.आइ. वालों से किया जा सकता है \ हम पहुंचे राहुल तिवारी के पास वे यहाँ के अधिकारी है ,कहने लगे की हाँ यहाँ कई तरह की किवदंतियां है ,लोगों की आस्थाएं बहुत है ,आसपास के बहुत सारे लोग यहाँ आते है |